{"id":15067,"date":"2019-10-14T06:45:17","date_gmt":"2019-10-14T04:45:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/guides-mont-blanc707.e.wpstage.net\/traversee-des-aiguilles-du-diable\/"},"modified":"2019-10-14T06:45:17","modified_gmt":"2019-10-14T04:45:17","slug":"traversee-des-aiguilles-du-diable","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/guides-mont-blanc.com\/en\/traversee-des-aiguilles-du-diable\/","title":{"rendered":"Travers\u00e9e des Aiguilles du Diable"},"content":{"rendered":"<h1><strong>Les Aiguilles du Diable, 6 fois 4000 m\u00e8tre dans la journ\u00e9e<\/strong><\/h1>\n<p>En cette fin de mois d&#8217;ao\u00fbt les conditions sont plut\u00f4t s\u00e8che. Il a neig\u00e9 il y&#8217;a quelque jours, mais rien de bien cons\u00e9quent. Aussi nous optons avec Cat pour des 4000 \u00e0 pr\u00e9dominance rocheuse, la travers\u00e9e des aiguilles du Diable. Cet ensemble de sommet compte des passages parmi les plus techniques sur les voies normale des 4000 de l&#8217;Alpes. En effet plusieur longueur sont du 5\u00e8me degr\u00e9, et une est en 6a. On passe ici aussi du temps en altitude, car la course est assez longue. La cotation globale de la travers\u00e9e des aiguilles du Diable est D+, ce qui demande tout de m\u00eame d&#8217;avoir un niveaux confirm\u00e9.<\/p>\n<p>Apr\u00e8s avoir pass\u00e9 la nuit au refuge Torino nous nous levons \u00e0 2h du matin.Nous prenons le petit d\u00e9jeun\u00e9 tranquillement. Une fois n&#8217;est pas coutume! En effet nous avons pr\u00e9vu de partir t\u00f4t pour ne pas avoir \u00e0 nous presser, mais il ne faudrait pas partir trop t\u00f4t au risque de rejoindre l&#8217;ar\u00eate avant le jour. Nous faisons l&#8217;approche tranquillement. La lune est absente et la nuit est d&#8217;encre. Les \u00e9toiles par contre scintille avec intensit\u00e9. La neige crisse sous les crampons, le regel est bon. Apr\u00e8s un parcours sinueux au milieu des crevasses du bassin du g\u00e9ant, nous rejoignons la rimaye.<\/p>\n<p>La premi\u00e8re pente est couverte d&#8217;une pellicule de neige, mais la glace sous-jacente se fait bien sentir. Passer ces 50 m\u00e8tre, nous rejoignons la banane rejoignant le couloir. Nous remontons alors ensemble, encord\u00e9 court l&#8217;essentiel du temps jusqu&#8217;\u00e0 rejoindre l&#8217;ar\u00eate au point du jour.<\/p>\n\n<p>Encore un grand moment ce lever de soleil. Les lumi\u00e8res son somptueuse tandis que nous arrivons au pied de la corne du diable et ses 4064m. De la vire une longueur raide mais bien prisu nous m\u00e8ne au sommet. Au sommet les perspectives sont renversantes, mais nous n&#8217;avons pas le temps de l\u00e9zarde. Il reste du chemin. En un rappel on regagne la br\u00e8che d&#8217;ou l&#8217;on vient.<\/p>\n<p>Apr\u00e8s avoir contourn\u00e9 un petit gendarme, une grande longueur et nous nous adressons d\u00e9j\u00e0 au sommet de la pointe Chaubert 4074m. En trois rappel nous rejoignons la br\u00e8che suivante. tre rapide dans les manips de corde, changer r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement de mode de progression pour s&#8217;adapter au terrain, c&#8217;est le jeu de ce type de course.<\/p>\n<p>La remont\u00e9e \u00e0 la pointe m\u00e9diane grimpe un peu plus que le deux premi\u00e8res pointes. Un grand di\u00e8dre, suivi de deux chemin\u00e9e bien rustique nous m\u00e8ne \u00e0 4097m. A nouveau deux rappels nous permettent de poursuivre la course.<\/p>\n\n<p>Pour rejoindre la Pointe Carmen, on bascule un peu versant nord, l&#8217;escalade est un peu verglac\u00e9 mais ce n&#8217;est pas g\u00eanant. Par contre les derniers mettre pour rejoindre le sommet sont bien que sec, d\u00e9licat et expos\u00e9.<\/p>\n<p>Apr\u00e8s encore trois rappels et nous repartons pour l&#8217;isol\u00e9e. Du mixte facile nous m\u00e8ne au pied de la derni\u00e8re tour. De l\u00e0 une travers\u00e9e d\u00e9licate mais bien prot\u00e9g\u00e9 vers la gauche permet de rejoindre une bonne fissure \u00e0 verrou. Cette fissure permet de franchir un petit surplomb et les difficult\u00e9s sont fini. Encore une longueur et nous rejoignons le sommet de l&#8217;Isol\u00e9e \u00e0 4114m, cinqui\u00e8me sommet du jour. Encore un rappel et nous encha\u00eenons vers le Mont-Blanc du Tacul.<\/p>\n\n<p>La suite est plus commode, du terrain \u00e0 assurage en mouvement. Nous finissons par atteindre le sommet, et de six.<\/p>\n<p>N&#8217;\u00e9tant pas en avance, c&#8217;est \u00e0 un rythme soutenu que nous filons \u00e0 l&#8217;aiguille du Midi avant la fermeture des remont\u00e9es.\u00a0<span style=\"line-height: 1.5;\">La travers\u00e9e des aiguilles Diable est vraiment une tr\u00e8s belle course, compl\u00e8te, avec un soup\u00e7on de technicit\u00e9 et le plaisir de l&#8217;altitude. A faire absolument!<\/span><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Les Aiguilles du Diable, 6 fois 4000 m\u00e8tre dans la journ\u00e9e En cette fin de mois d&#8217;ao\u00fbt les conditions sont plut\u00f4t s\u00e8che. Il a neig\u00e9 il y&#8217;a quelque jours, mais rien de bien cons\u00e9quent. Aussi nous optons avec Cat pour des 4000 \u00e0 pr\u00e9dominance rocheuse, la travers\u00e9e des aiguilles du Diable. Cet ensemble de sommet [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":19,"featured_media":12885,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[91],"tags":[90,113,92,169,94,186,171,110,154,172,173,174],"class_list":["post-15067","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-alpinisme","tag-4000m","tag-alpinisme","tag-alpinisme-classique","tag-corne-du-diable","tag-course-mixte","tag-france","tag-lisolee","tag-massif-du-mont-blanc","tag-mont-blanc-du-tacul","tag-pointe-carmen","tag-pointe-chaubert","tag-pointe-mediane"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.7 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Travers\u00e9e des Aiguilles du Diable - Compagnie des Guides<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/guides-mont-blanc.com\/en\/traversee-des-aiguilles-du-diable\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Travers\u00e9e des Aiguilles du Diable - Compagnie des Guides\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Les Aiguilles du Diable, 6 fois 4000 m\u00e8tre dans la journ\u00e9e En cette fin de mois d&#8217;ao\u00fbt les conditions sont plut\u00f4t s\u00e8che. Il a neig\u00e9 il y&#8217;a quelque jours, mais rien de bien cons\u00e9quent. Aussi nous optons avec Cat pour des 4000 \u00e0 pr\u00e9dominance rocheuse, la travers\u00e9e des aiguilles du Diable. 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