{"id":13753,"date":"2017-01-16T16:04:41","date_gmt":"2017-01-16T15:04:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/guides-mont-blanc707.e.wpstage.net\/2017\/01\/16\/escalade-en-grece-a-leonidio\/"},"modified":"2017-01-16T16:04:41","modified_gmt":"2017-01-16T15:04:41","slug":"escalade-en-grece-a-leonidio","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/guides-mont-blanc.com\/en\/escalade-en-grece-a-leonidio\/","title":{"rendered":"Escalade en Gr\u00e8ce \u00e0 L\u00e9onidio"},"content":{"rendered":"

Voyage et escalade \u00e0 L\u00e9onidio.<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Apr\u00e8s le succ\u00e8s de Kalymnos, de nombreux sites d’escalade voient le jour en Gr\u00e8ce continentale. Nous sommes all\u00e9s d\u00e9couvrir les nouvelles falaises \u00e9quip\u00e9es autour d’un petit village de la c\u00f4te est du P\u00e9loponn\u00e8se, L\u00e9onidio.<\/p>\n

\"Falaises
Les falaises de L\u00e9onidio depuis le petit port de Poulithra.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u00a0Le village :<\/strong><\/h3>\n

L\u00e9onidio est un village d’environ 6000 habitants construit au pied de belles falaises calcaires de 250 m de haut. Depuis trois ans et demi, des grimpeurs de toute l’europe \u00e9quipent de nouveaux secteurs, essentiellement des couennes mais aussi quelques grandes voies. C’est une belle destination pour grimper en automne et en hiver.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Le
Le village depuis la falaise.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Au village, tout est fait pour faciliter la vie des grimpeurs. On trouve de nombreuses possibilit\u00e9s de logements : h\u00f4tels, locations d’appartements, B&B et un camping<\/a> en bord de mer. Tous les commerces n\u00e9cessaires sont pr\u00e9sents, sup\u00e9rettes, boulangeries, caf\u00e9s, restaurants et il y a beaucoup de produits locaux excellents…<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Panjika
Panjika Coop\u00e9rative<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Le topo des falaises est disponible \u00e0 la coop\u00e9rative Panjika<\/a>, le bar-restaurant-\u00e9picerie-salle de concert des grimpeurs et \u00e9quipeurs locaux. On y trouve toutes les infos et de pr\u00e9cieux conseils.<\/p>\n

Les \u00e9quipeurs ouvrent des secteurs dans tous les niveaux et font de L\u00e9onidio une destination ouverte aux grimpeurs de 5 au 8. A noter l’utilisation de goujons inox de haute qualit\u00e9 ( 316 L, Raumer ) qui semble \u00e9viter les probl\u00e8mes de corrosion des ancrages fr\u00e9quents en bord de mer.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Quelques beaux secteurs :<\/strong><\/h3>\n
\"L\u00e9onidio
secteur Hot Roc<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Hot Roc :<\/strong><\/p>\n

Un des secteurs les plus fr\u00e9quent\u00e9s. Surtout des grandes longueurs sur un tr\u00e8s beau calcaire gris \u00e0 gouttes d’eau ou rouge avec des petites colos. Les cotations vont du 6a au 7a+ pour une vingtaine de longueurs \u00e9quip\u00e9es principalement par les fr\u00e8res R\u00e9my. Expos\u00e9 plein sud il peut y faire tr\u00e8s (trop) chaud…<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"L\u00e9onidio
secteur Mars<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Secteur Mars :<\/strong><\/p>\n

Un des secteurs majeurs de la r\u00e9gion. Un d\u00e9vers avec d’\u00e9normes concr\u00e9tions et des murs \u00e0 trous dans du calcaire rouge… Des longueurs de 20 \u00e0 40m du 6a au 8a. Passe \u00e0 l’ombre en fin de matin\u00e9e. Magnifique !<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"L\u00e9onidio
Cave of panagia<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Cave of Panagia : <\/strong><\/p>\n

Une grotte \u00e0 30m du sol forme un d\u00e9vers de 30 m recouvert de concr\u00e9tions, colonnettes, stalactites. On y trouve 3 voies dans le 7a nomm\u00e9es en hommage aux grimpeurs Edlinger, Gullich et Berhault.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Kyparissi :<\/strong><\/h3>\n
\"Kyparissi\"
Kyparissi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Kyparissi est un petit port 30 km au sud de L\u00e9onidio, adoss\u00e9 aux montagnes o\u00f9 se trouvent de nombreuses falaises. Le d\u00e9veloppement de l’escalade est tout r\u00e9cent mais on trouve d\u00e9j\u00e0 quelques sites magnifiques. Le topo est \u00e0 t\u00e9l\u00e9charger ici<\/a>. Au village, il y a toutes les commodit\u00e9s,\u00a0 sauf un distributeur d’argent et une station essence, pr\u00e9voir en cons\u00e9quence. Une route sur le littoral est en cours de construction mais pour l’instant il faut passer par les montagnes pour rejoindre Kyparissi, compter environ 1 heure depuis L\u00e9onidio. Il y a deux secteurs majeurs, Babala et Watermill.<\/p>\n

\"Kyparissi,
Kyparissi, watermill<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Watermill :<\/strong><\/p>\n

Bien visible au dessus de la route qui descend au village, Watermill est une belle falaise orange pleines de stalactites et de colonnettes. Une vingtaine de voies du 6a au 8a et encore de nombreuses possibilit\u00e9s d’ouverture. La falaise passe \u00e0 l’ombre \u00e0 la mi-journ\u00e9e. Le site vaut largement le d\u00e9tour !<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Se rendre \u00e0 L\u00e9onidio :<\/strong><\/h3>\n
\"carte-peloponnese\"
carte du P\u00e9loponn\u00e8se<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Le plus simple est de prendre un vol pour Ath\u00e8nes puis de louer une voiture (10 euros par jour environ). On rejoint L\u00e9onidio en 3 heures 30 ( 235 km ).<\/p>\n

Pour faire le trajet en voiture ou camping-car, le mieux est de se rendre \u00e0 Anc\u00f4ne en Italie pour prendre le ferry pour Patras (20 heures de travers\u00e9e). On rejoint ensuite L\u00e9onidio en 4 heures de route.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Bonne grimpe !<\/strong><\/h3>\n

 <\/p>\n\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Voyage et escalade \u00e0 L\u00e9onidio. Apr\u00e8s le succ\u00e8s de Kalymnos, de nombreux sites d’escalade voient le jour en Gr\u00e8ce continentale. Nous sommes all\u00e9s d\u00e9couvrir les nouvelles falaises \u00e9quip\u00e9es autour d’un petit village de la c\u00f4te est du P\u00e9loponn\u00e8se, L\u00e9onidio.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":60,"featured_media":13236,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[87],"tags":[103,104,105],"class_list":["post-13753","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-voyage-expedition","tag-escalade","tag-grece","tag-voyage"],"yoast_head":"\nEscalade en Gr\u00e8ce \u00e0 L\u00e9onidio - Compagnie des Guides<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/guides-mont-blanc.com\/en\/escalade-en-grece-a-leonidio\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Escalade en Gr\u00e8ce \u00e0 L\u00e9onidio - Compagnie des Guides\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Voyage et escalade \u00e0 L\u00e9onidio. 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